Factors that should be considered when planting a tree…Soil conditions

  • Crown spread
  • Site dimensions
  • Tree species

    Soil Conditions
    Soil in the planting sites should remain un compacted to prevent surface root problems and to provide good rooting areas. (When sites seem stressed it is recommended to mulch the area since mulching helps improve soil conditions, mulched areas are less compacted and provide better rooting conditions).

    Crown Spread
    Trees tend to develop spreading their crown in an open area when there is no competition for space. The same tree will grow in a more upright position in search of light because of the limited space caused by the adjacent closely spaced trees or buildings. This upright form is considered the natural form of the tree and should be pruned periodically as the tree begins to fill up the available space.

    Site Dimensions
    Trees should be planted in a way that at least one foot of soil is between the curb or sidewalk edge and the tree trunk at maturity. A mature tree of large canopy is described to reach 18 in. in diameter at breast height. The diameter at base should measure about 20-24 inches. So a tree that is expected to grow into a large specimen should be planted 2 ft. form the sidewalk edge. Obviously, some trees grow more than 18 in. in diameter; these trees should be planted 3-5 in. form the sidewalk edge. Large shade trees require about a 400 sq ft. minimum to grow, when space is limited the tree should be removed before it becomes a problem.

    Tree Species Selection
    Tree species selection is mainly planting the right tree at the right time; specifically replacing trees that may become to large for their particular site. 

    There are many other factors involved in Tree Survey.  The information given is very minimal.  Our customers are most welcome to call us at 972-228-8844 for more detailed information.



Mitigation is the attempt to neutralize possible adverse effects of human activity on the environment. Mitigation measures have become an important part of the management process. It is also an integral part of the conservation planning efforts.

Mitigation minimizes impacts by limiting the degree of the action. It rectifies by repairing, rehabilitating or restoring the affected environment. Mitigation can reduce or eliminate environmental impact over time by using preservation and maintenance activities. It also remunerates for an impact by replacing or providing substitute resources or environments.

Mitigation is usually based on two things; protecting existing trees or woodland/ forest resources and planting new trees. Mitigation measures can be implemented on or offsite.

Measures used for protecting trees or stands on site are….

  • Relocating structures or infrastructures
  • Using special construction methods to minimize damage to tree roots
  • Setting aside portions of project areas as woodland/forest preserves

Measures for planting new trees and/ or woodland restoration….

  • Planting new trees in landscaped portions to replace those removed
  • Planting new trees on portions of the project area set aside for woodland/forest preserves

Mitigation measures used for protecting trees or stands offsite….

  • Land can be purchased with existing trees or stands  public agencies or land trusts and made into permanent woodland/forest preserves
  • Permanent conservation easements can be established on individual trees or stands on private lands to protect those trees from removal

Measures for planting new trees or woodland/forest restoration offsite…..

  • Planting new trees on approved public lands such as landscaped areas, areas that are undergoing rehabilitation and reforestation of natural woodlands/forest.
  • Planting new trees on private lands like land trust holdings and privately owned woodland forest preserves protected by conservation easements.

When trying to manage mitigation there are many objectives to consider. These are some of the following objectives both protecting and planting have to consider.

  • Preventing net loss of tree canopy or forest type.
  • Maintaining mature tree canopy
  • Maintaining aesthetics associated with existing trees
  • Maintaining the values of the habitat
  • Maintaining the species diversities
  • Maintaining age diversities
  • The conservation of local tree genetic resources

Several issues that should be considered when choosing between on-site and offsite mitigation are….

On Site

The area or tree resource available for mitigation may be limited. Also there may be few location options for mitigation areas. The mitigation area is normally owned by the applicant and may be required to dedicate it to city, public agency or a land trust. Also the applicant must maintain the trees if they retain the ownership of the mitigation area; if the area was dedicated the local government or land trust maintains the trees.

Off Site

Area is typically not limited but the availability of potential mitigation sites close to the project site may be few. The location of the mitigation area is more flexible but is dependent on the availability of proper public or private receiver sites. Mitigation areas are usually owned by the city/ county or government agency. Maintenance is usually run by mitigation site land owner. The city/county monitors and enforces responsibilities to ensure that the tree is maintained. Another important thing to consider about off site mitigation is that In-Lieu fees are commonly used.



Tree diagnosis and treatment consist off an extensive inspection of landscape by a certified arborist. During the consultation the arborist will be able to determine the overall health of the landscape, identify any diseases and recommend any services needed.

Here is a list of problems that can stress or kill your trees…..

  • Standing water
  • Construction
  • Herbicides
  • Excavation
  • Landscaping over watering
  • Insect damage
  • Tree disease

10 Things You Can Do To Save Your Trees…….

  • Look for changes in color
  • Look for wet spots in your tree
  • Look for cavities or holes in your tree
  • Look for splits in fork of tree
  • Look for mushrooms growing out from the base
  • Look for cracks in the bark or exit holes on the limbs or trunks
  • Don’t over water your trees
  • Don’t use herbicides under the canopy of your trees
  • Don’t pile mulch around the trunk of trees
  • Schedule annual appointments with your arborist and include him in any construction or excavation work you may be doing.


Common reasons for moving and transplanting trees form one site to another are….

  • To prevent the loss of a tree due to construction
  • To create space for a new addition
  • To alter the design of a landscape
  • To create a mature landscape quickly
  • To move a tree to a site better suited to its needs
  • When a tree has outgrown its present location

Usually deciduous trees transplant well if moved in the spring before they leaf out or in the fall after the leaves begin to change in color.
Evergreen trees should not be moved during the flush of the growth in spring or in the fall since it will be too late for the roots to get established before winter. But you should also take note that there are some exceptions to these rules.

There are also differences between moving trees that have been raised in the wild and in a nursery. Trees grown in nurseries are easier to move because they have been subjected to maintenance practices such as root pruning. Trees grown in the wild are often difficult to transplant because they have grown in an environment that protected them from the wind making them have large shallow root systems and weak trunks.

Another important issue in the success of the transplant is the type of soil. The soil structure influences the trees root extensions and penetration. Clay soil will contribute to a tree with a smaller rootball while trees grown in sandy soil will have a more complex root system. Other soil factors include the level of soil compaction and the moisture.

It is important to consider where a tree is to be planted, proper placement of trees is vital to the design and sustainability of the landscape. The species of tree for a site depends on space requirements, existing plants, structures, and the function the tree will perform according to the landscape.

Common uses of trees in landscape are….

  • To soften the architectural lines of a building
  • To crate shade and reduce summer cooling costs
  • To crate a backdrop for a landscape
  • To provide a screening or a ceiling over an outdoor space.

When transplanting a tree it is importing to try an replicate the original conditions as much as possible to increase the success of the transplant. Soil type, planting depth, staking, watering and mulching are important roles in the success of the transplant.

Soil Type

If possible the soil type should match. For large projects a soil analysis is recommended to compare the structure of the soil as well as the porosity and amendments required.

Planting Depth

 Before digging the rootball should be watered thoroughly to reduce soil loss and keep the ball intact during transportation. For proper tree hydration, the tree should be watered 1- 2 days prior to the moving of the tree. When positioning the tree in the new hole, it should be placed 2 – 3” higher that the usual grade to allow for settling.


Staking is required as extra support for the tree since the roots of the newly transplanted tree will not establish themselves securely in the ground for several weeks after the tree has been planted. However, it is important to remove the staking as soon as the tree is well rooted since a trunk’s strength can be weakened by a long term staking.


Since newly planted trees don’t have an extensive root system it is important to water transplants on a regular basis, especially during dry periods to reduce water stress. If the tree has prolonged water stress it will cause it to become susceptible to diseases and insect damage. Over watering and the poor drainage of soil can also create an anaerobic environment around the root zone that is favorable to rot fungi and bacteria or may cause roots to suffocate.

It is important to water the soil ball and the surrounding soils to a depth of 12” of a newly transplanted tree. Water should be applied slowly to the entire area, allowing adequate penetration. Watering is required weekly for the first month and twice a month for the rest of the first growing season. It should continue as needed for
2 – 3 seasons after transplanting. It is important that evergreens be watered on a regular basis until the soil freezes in order to prevent winter browning and needle desiccation. 


Newly planted trees and shrubs can benefit significantly from mulching. Some of the benefits are….

  • More uniform soil temperature
  • Reduced soil erosion
  • Reduced weed competition
  • Improved Moisture retention
  • Reduced damage to tree trunks and roots from mowers, weed whips and other equipment
  • Provides a pleasant view to shaded areas underneath trees where grass grows

After a tree is transplanted, 4 – 6” layer wood mulch should be applied; it should be pulled away from the trunk to reduce damage form trapping moisture. The mulch area should reach out 10 – 12” past the original rootball. Avoid mulching up to the tree trunk since it will trap moisture and can lead to insects and disease issues.



Tree Removal may be considered a drastic step, but there are circumstances when it may be necessary. It is essential to remove a tree when a tree is dead or dying for health and aesthetic reasons. It should also be removed when it is considered hazardous; causing an obstruction that can not be corrected by pruning or when it can cause harm to other trees or its surroundings.

There is more to taking down a tree than just taking a chainsaw and cutting it down. You must consider the structure of the tree, the limbs, proximity to adjacent structures and power lines. But most important is accessibility to for equipment and the safety of those involved in the operation.


Our state of art machinery can quickly and easily clear land of brush or trees leaving behind organic mulch that can be hauled away only if desired. We can do work for many….

  • Builders clearing lots for new construction
  • Developers clearing land for subdivisions and commercial projects
  • Utility companies marinating gas and power lines
  • Park and Forestry departments
  • Land and home owner needing general land clearing and fire breaks

Cost of land clearing varies greatly; there are many factors that can influence the bid. These are some of the factors that bids are dependent on….

  • Size of the acreage to be cleared
  • Type of terrain of clearing required
  • Tree types, size, number and density
  • Accessibility for our work crew
  • Location


We have Roll-Off Containers of 10, 20, 30, & 40 yard capacity

Whether you have debris from demolition, construction, renovations, repair, or land clearing...

Big Bird Wood Grinding Service can provide any kind of roll-off container delivered to your site and picked up at your convenience with very reasonable prices.

We remove...

  • Root Balls, Trees, & Brush
  • Construction Debris
  • Concrete
  • Asphalt
  • Roof Shingles
  • Tree Stumps
  • Scrap Metal

There are many materials that we can haul and dispose off some here is a list off a few materials that we can dispose off….

  • Land Clearing
  • Construction Waste
  • Building Demolition
  • Natural Disaster Cleanup
  • Logging Slash
  • Green Waste
  • Pallet
  • Log Yard Waste
  • Lumber Ends
  • Railroad Ties


The tub grinder used by our company is known as the “Highway Contender”. The Highway Contender turns large tree piles, limbs and root balls into mulch quickly and cleanly. For builders, contractors, and excavators the Tub Grinder is the simple, affordable way to clear underbrush and shred debris. For municipalities, it is an efficient and cost-effective method of choice for managing recycling programs, waste reduction and landfill reclamation.

Long Distance Tub Grinder Availability - We have a crew dedicated to the Tub Grinder which is available independently or on a sub-contractor basis for commercial, government, and corps projects throughout the continental United States.
When you need performance on large and mega-scale projects that demand a high daily capacity, Big Bird’s "Highway Contender" delivers timely and cost effective results – when it’s “Grinding v. Hauling,” you can save 30% to 50% by grinding.
Our Tub Grinder Can Grind….

  • Land Clearing
  • Construction Waste
  • Building Demolition
  • Natural Disaster Cleanup
  • Logging Slash
  • Green Waste
  • Pallet
  • Log Yard Waste
  • Lumber Ends
  • Railroad Ties


Mulching trees and shrubs is a good method to reduce landscape maintenance and keep plants healthy. Mulch helps conserve moisture; there is a 10 - 25 percent reduction in soil moisture loss from evaporation. Mulches help keep the soil well aerated by reducing soil compaction that results when raindrops hit the soil. They also reduce water runoff and soil erosion.

Mulches prevent soil and possible fungi from splashing on the foliage, thus reducing the likelihood of soil-borne diseases. They help maintain a more uniform soil temperature (warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer) and promote the growth of soil microorganisms and earth worms.

Mulches eliminate mowing around trees and shrubs and provide a physical barrier that prevents damage from lawn mowers and weed trimmers. A 2 - 4 in. layer (after settling) is adequate to prevent most weed seeds from germinating. Mulch should be applied to a weed-free soil surface. Simply covering perennial weeds such as Bermuda grass or nut sedge will not prevent their growth.

The mulched area should include as much of the root zone as possible. For beds, mulch the entire area. For individual plants, such as trees, the mulched area should extend at least 3 - 6 ft. out from the base of the plant. It is advisable to pull the mulch 1 - 2 in. from the base of plants to prevent bark decay.

Mulch depth depends on the type of material used and the drainage and moisture holding capacity of the soil. Sandy soils dry out quickly and often benefit from a slightly deeper mulch layer. A site that stays moist may not benefit from mulching at all.

Mulch can be applied any time of the year. However, the best time to mulch is late spring after the soil has warmed. Early spring application will delay soil warming and possibly plant growth. It is not necessary to remove the mulch when you fertilize. Apply the fertilizer over the mulch; nutrients will move with water to the roots below.


A silt fence is the most common used fabric for erosion control in a residential area and commercial construction. It is made from woven polypropylene yarns which are designed to block the sediment while letting the water slowly flow through the fabric. If a silt fence is properly installed it can control sediment from being washed into streams and rivers. Silt fence is available in 2’ and 3’ heights.

To properly install silt fence; you should unroll the fabric, stretch it and drive stakes into the ground. It is important the stakes are on the downside of the slope or facing away form the sediment. The bottom of the fabric should be buried at least six inches under the soil to prevent the sediment form escaping underneath the the fencing. If your are going to connect more than one section you should make sure that the last stake of the first stake section is interlocked with the first stake of the next section. The overlap will ensure the containment and help prevent any runoff at the intersection of the two sections of the fencing.

Copyright Big Bird Land Clearing, 2006
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Big Bird Land Clearing

401 EWhe. atland Rd
Dallas, TX 75241

Phone:  972-228-8844

Toll Free 1-888-458-0202